“Why not?”, was my reaction when the WhatsApp message about the Tarsar Marsar trek popped up on my phone on 18th April 2022. This was a message on a Trekkers group I am part of, sent out by Roshan Lobo, an avid trekker and paragliding enthusiast, who lives in the same society I live in.
While I would count myself as physically active, someone who can run 5 kms if I must, someone who can play a 15-over cricket match at short notice, without popping my heart out on the floor at the end of the game, and yes, someone who can trek a small hill without losing my legs. But a trek in the Himalayas? That is something that needs a drink to think about, in fact maybe a full bottle to understand how. The countless YouTube videos about treks in the Himalayas, the unpredictability of the treks, the physical ask of one, and a possibility of “rescues”, all of this meant I had to prepare well to be on one. I asked Rashmi, my wife, and she had the “Go for it if you really want to” answer.
Well, the decision was a “Yes” with which started the preparation for the trek – a minimum of a 5-kilometer run at least 5 times in a week. I was doing well till about mid-May, when I got called in to be part of a rather tough project – more like the “Chalo Bulaawa Aaya Hai…” in a Consultant’s life (I am a Management Consultant). That spun things out of control for me – 14+ hour workdays, with very little weekend “me” time. That meant no run, no workouts. I was hoping my past karma would somehow bail me out on this trek.
Cut to July 1st – the nervous energy is still brewing. While I am keen on the trek, I am also anxious about how things will hold up – will I be able to trek at the Himalayan altitude? Will I have to drop the idea of this trek? Just then, we all get a message that the trekking permits have been revoked in the Aru Valley citing security concerns to the Amarnath pilgrims. Thus, the Tarsar-Marsar trek had to be cancelled, but Anthill Adventures (with whom we were registered to trek) had pulled a rabbit out of the hat and decided to take us to the Kashmir Great Lakes trek instead.
While I was happy that Anthill had managed to stay committed to the dates of the trek, I was worried how they will be able to pull this off – but let me tell you, the gang did a fabulous job. Aman Sood (the trek leader), Gulzar (the lead guide) and the whole team did such a brilliant job that we could only thank our lucky stars for having registered with them for this trek! However, the question remains – why would you cancel treks for a pilgrimage? I mean, when will we allow other folks also go ahead with their plans even if it does not involve a temple or shrine in it? If there were 100 more pilgrims, they would not have cancelled the pilgrimage, so why cancel a trek? Anyway, in hindsight, it did work well for us. So all’s well that ends well!
The fellow-trekkers:
- Akshaya and Ashish Moses, the brother-sister duo with tons of energy and stamina for the daily hike. In fact the challenge through the trek was to “Keep Up with the Moseses”
- Kade Finnoff and her son Azad – some of the highlights of the trek came from this mother-son duo : how nonchalantly Kade brought out the sachets of filter coffee when we were all craving for some, how tirelessly she brewed fresh drinking water for all of us, and how funny Azad was with all his quips like “Bolo Zubaan Kesari” or his favorite – Bolo-Ganesh (Bolognese for the less evolved)
- Preeti and Seema – both successful doctors on a much-deserved break digging out the will to move ahead and get to the next peak, albeit with measured steps and some banter (especially Seema). The climb would not have been half the fun without the reactions they both had to the trek ahead.
- Arpitha – a good friend, and a doctor practicing Emergency Medicine, looking for a break from the 24-hour shifts – and yes, a breather in the high mountain-passes
- Dolly – looking to get away from the busy workdays and the laptop and experience the pure joy that one can get from the mountains. The speed at which she could run downhill is worth a discussion. She showed amazing strength of character when she had to recover from fatigue to move ahead on the trek.
- Roshan Lobo – an avid trekker and a paragliding enthusiast I had introduced earlier. My tent-mate through the trek and someone who had to sleep through the snores of a tired trekker. The trip wouldn’t have been half the fun without him guiding us through the terrain.
- Aman Sood – the leader of the trek and the man with an amazing sense of hospitality. He ensured we were all well geared-up, well fed, well turned-up for the trek and yes, kept us on our toes through the trek. Someone I learnt loads from on the trek and wish to team up with more often as my future treks unfold.
- Gulzar bhai – the lead guide and someone with unparalleled energy for the trek. Man of few words but can strike a good conversation when you catch up with him on the trek. Has many amazing stories from his countless Himalayan trek.
Now the trek itself – I have not seen another trek where one can get to see so many mountains that keeping rolling up one after the other – snow-capped peaks, glacial mountains, such raw beauty of nature – one can only experience all this by being there live. No number of words, nor pictures captured on a camera can ever do justice to how beautiful the region is!
The answer to what they are fighting for in some way is witnessed when you go trekking in Kashmir! This is an 8-day trek with a buffer day when planned – but since we were there on a wild-card entry, we did not have a buffer day, which later cost us dear, since we could not go ahead beyond the Gadsar pass (the day 4 lake). The itinerary is quite a challenge when you consider I had my own concerns on how I will show up in the mountains.
Day 1: Srinagar to Sonamarg – a 2.5 to 3-hour drive from the Srinagar airport to Sonamarg is a fun drive if you enjoy the views of the mountains and the Sindh hurrying downstream by the highway. Some good trailer that will prepare you for what’s in store in the upcoming week.
Day 2: Trek to Nichnai – a hike up from Sonamarg to Table Top, a beautiful plateau nested by the Thajwas mountain range, a beautiful but imposing snow-covered glacier that gives you the first glimpse of huge the Himalayan mountains can actually get. A 9-ish km walk by the amazing river and multiple spots where you want to just stop and soak in the sheer splendor of the landscape
Day 3 and 4: Trek to Vishansar Valley – a 12+ km hike with some amazing long conversations. Some more spectacular views of the mountains, and many enticing stops to just breathe in the beautiful valley that we walk through.
The camp that evening was set up by the Vishansar Lake, a beautiful Alpine Lake that just makes you forget the day’s hard trek. Something only the eyes can behold but can never put down to paper!
Unfortunately, this is where the Rain Gods had to strike us. And strike real hard – a non-stop thunderstorm through the night meant we had no choice but to call in a rest day on Day 4. Some fun and games and multiple walks to Vishansar made the day though!
Day 5: Trek up the pass to see Gadsar – this is the highest point I have ever gotten to in my life – 4200m above sea level. An amazing panoramic view of the mountains – running up to get a view of the mighty Nanga Parbat when it is clear – and what a sight that is! No matter how casual you may wish to sound about this – the feeling that crosses your mind when you see the Nanga Parbat is that of awe and a jaw-drop! This is also the highest altitude on this trek. We get to this point by crossing another beautiful lake the Kishansar. Two beautiful lakes right next to each other is quite a sight to behold!
That pretty much ended our march ahead on this trek – but I am sure I will return one day to complete this trek – maybe soon so I can check that box.
What this trip gave in return is something that I will never forget – some of the most beautiful views of my life, a dream rekindled – one that will surely take me higher and higher soon – and I am so keen that I keep looking for upcoming treks in the Anthill website so I can register for the next high-altitude trek soon.
A long-standing friendship and some amazing company also marked the highlights of this trek. I am sure I will trek with many of the fellow-trekkers and I am damn sure I will trek with Anthill back again. I miss the mountains, the banter, and the amazing food – itching to get back on the trail!
Krishna, a bangalore-based management consultant went on the Kashmir Great Lakes with AntHill Adventures in July 2022.