Day 2
The sun came up as we were greeted to another spectacular day on our Trek to Lam Dal. The weather was perfect for walking and we knew that today was going to be a long day. We had to go upstream as we would walk past six more lakes, from where we planned to go back east over the Gaj pass followed by the descent to the shepherd meadows of Bhag in the Kangra valley.
The walk up to Lam Dal, the highest and largest of all the lakes was nothing short of magnificent. At approximately 3900 meters surrounded by the Dhauladhars, we had the impression of being on top of the world. One after the other we passed the lakes, each mesmerisingly beautiful in its own right. The placid and crystal clear waters reflected the mountains set against clear blue skies and the images were too good to not capture. Every subsequent lake was placed literally a step above the previous, with the waters of one falling into the other. Meadows by the lakeside made camping possible almost everywhere. We strongly fought the urge to camp another night!
The Lam Dal came to us as a surprise. The visible portion of the lake (the lake turns into a valley, hidden from our line of sight) is surrounded by high Dhauladhars making a ‘bowl’ of sorts. There is a small temple next to the lake, dedicated to Lord Shiva. These waters are deeply sacred to local people from Kangra and Chamba. Every year during Janmashtami, after the monsoon, the lake becomes a place of pilgrimage and devotees come to the lake and take a dip in its waters. Apart from this annual pilgrimage, visits to Lam Dal are rare.
The Dhauladhars are notorious for the dramatic change in weather in the afternoon. Clouds carrying moisture from the plains usually reach the mountain range around this time where they shed their moisture in the form of rain, hail, sleet or snow depending upon the altitude. The height of the mountains coupled with the weight of the precipitation are chief causes of this watershed. Spending more time at the lake was therefore, not a wise idea. The Gaj pass however was within viewing distance and we were not too worried about the ascent.
The way to the top, much like the descent from Minkiani was boulder strewn. With no obvious path, we were left with our own judgement and ability on how to negotiate these rocks. Despite this we were able to reach the top of the pass in quick time. Even though we had wasted little time, the weather was clearly taking a turn for the worse. Looking down from Gaj pass, the Lam Dal lake looked beautiful yet menacing in the presence of huge boulders all around it. On the other side, toward Kangra though, visibility was poor. A thick cloud had enveloped the valley below us and we could make out the challenge it would be to go through it.
As we took our first steps downward from Gaj pass we realised the importance of caution. The path downward was perhaps the steepest I had ever encountered. With sheer drops on either side falling into what seemed like an abyss in the mist, we continued walking nervously. To make matters worse, a hail storm started. The slippery rock under our tired legs was lose in places and made the downhill even more treacherous.
Our spirits were down and when suddenly one of us spotted a Himalayan Tahr. Standing precariously on the rock face, yet very still, I could make out its gigantic form through the mist. The animal was staring right at us, ready to bolt on our slightest move. Unfortunately, I could not alert those behind me in time. In a split second the animal disappeared over the ridgeline, the sounds of its hooves hard on the rock under it.
A couple of hours of (very slow and careful!) descent later the tree-line started. The path was still very steep, it was now wider and step cut. The presence of the rhododendron trees around us hid the sheer drops and we felt safer. After crossing a couple of streams over steep and slippery boulders we could finally see the Bhag clearing. It being mid-October, most of the gaddis were descending to the plains, leaving their huts unoccupied. It was almost dark by the time we arrived and after five hours of very steep walking we were in no position to pitch tents. We decided to sleep in the huts instead. The huts were clean, comfortable and quite cozy and after the tiring and eventful day we had had, we welcomed a solid roof and a room to sleep in!
Continue Reading: Lam Dal Trek Report, Bhag to Kareri roadhead